Test Jigs

#Test Jigs and Procedures The following are links to all information related to test jigs and test procedures

• TinyGv8 Production Test Instructions for Revision 1 Tester
• TinyGv8 Production Test Instructions for Revision 2 Tester
• Beaglebone Black AVR Programmer page
• BeagleBone Black Test Rig Operation
• TinyGv9j Manual Programming and Test Instructions

#Building Test Jigs The rest of this page is a collection of random notes on building test jigs. Mostly it's a record of mistakes to be avoided.

Pogo Board

• Design a test board (pogo board)
  • Use the layout of the UUT to line up mounting holes and test points
    • Account for all test points and mounting holes (for alignment)
  • Use IDI socketed pogo pins (exclusively). Expensive but worth it
  • Use IDI Size 3 preferentially - 0.125" centers
    • R-3-SC receptacles (sockets)
    • S-3-H-4-G waffle head
    • S-3-A-4-G cup head
    • S-3-B-7-G spear
  • Use 0.100" only for those things that require tighter spacing
    • R-100-SC receptacles (sockets)
    • S-100-WO-8-G-S crown head
    • S-100-A-6.7-G cup head
    • S-100-J-6.7-G headless radius
    • S-100-B-6.7-G headless spear
    • S-100-AP-6.7-G-S headless sharp chisel
  • Pogo holes are 0.063"
  • Mounting holes are 0.125" ID, 0.250" clearance (4/40 hw)
  • Manufacture tester PCB using 0.93" FR4

###Spacer Board

• Lay out a spacer board (Diptrace) using the pogo board layout file
  • Holes for 0.125" pogos are 0.095" (clears barrel and stops on annular ring)
  • Holes for 0.100" pogos are 0.067" (ditto)
  • Holes for mounting HW are 0.125" (4-40 hardware)
• Export the drill file as a DXF for laser cutting
• Laser cut a spacer plate of 1/16" clear plexi to line up the pogo sockets
• Grind down 1/4" diameter X 3/4" length 4-40 female-female aluminum hex spacers to 0.700 tall. Ensure there is enough 4-40 thread on the ground end.

###Assembly

• Assemble all electronics first before attaching pogo pins

  • e.g. regulators, connectors...

• Attaching pogo receptacles to tester board

  • Insert receptacles into all holes to be filled
  • Position spacer plate roughly over holes
  • Insert pogos through plate to line up pogo receptacles with spacer plate holes
  • Carefully work the plate onto the pogos
    • Stop at the annular detent ring
    • Push too hard and will crack the plate
  • Before soldering - ensure first pogo is at right angle to the board!!! Very important!!!
  • Solder it and do another pogo at the far end, also at a right angle
  • Solder only on the side with the trace to make removal easier (if you eventually need it)
  • Do not flex the sockets. They will break off at the collar